Foursquare Foursquare Foursquare! What seems like forever ago now, someone influential somewhere declared Foursquare to be the "Pappy of Rum". This created lots of buzz, but we couldn't disagree with that designation more. Unlike good ole' Pappy, Foursquare is totally worth the hype, and though each release is by definition limited, being only released once, there is generally enough to go around thanks to the foresight and impeccable organization of Richard Seale and Co. Each release offers something different, but at the same high level of quality or better, upping the ante with each regular bottle. So instead of calling this stuff the "Pappy of Rum", maybe the Bourbon world should step it up and give us something of such quality and consistency that we can call "The Foursquare of Bourbon". Until then, we can sit back, pour ourselves some Foursquare, and be glad that the rum ISN'T always gone.
This, the 20th release in their Exceptional Cask Series, is another age-pushing all ex-bourbon release at a whopping 17 years old. It may be par for the course with Foursquare, but 17 year old tropically aged rum is an impressive thing to see in any situation. After so many years in the heat and humidity, the angel's share has taken quite a toll on the casks, with much if not most of the contents lost to evaporation, and what is left is hyper-concentrated, unctuous, and worthy of salivation. That is certainly true of this rum, which gives off aromas of pine forest, vanilla, tobacco, cocoa powder, dried apricot, and old antique wood. The palate is viscous and rich, with sweet candied plums, chocolate, orange zest, dark dried fruits, salted toffee, and vanilla bean. The finish hints at oak bitterness, but doesn't overwhelm the rich dessert notes from the palate. Bottled at a cask strength of 58% abv, as always without chill-filtration or additives of any kind.